Behind an anonymous New Town front door on Dundas Street, bagging one of the limited seats at the Table feels like being part of an elite club. Bookings have release dates, like concert tickets, three months in advance. Just ten high seats surround an open kitchen where an imaginative (and slightly manic) chef prepares some absolute masterpieces right before your eyes. The only option is a seven-course blind tasting menu, leaving you in the very capable hands of chef Sean - make yourself comfortable because the whole experience can take over four hours. Start the evening with braised beef cheeks atop a polenta parmesan reduction that's smooth and heavy with umami flavour, while partridge breast with a rose-pink core is deliciously tender. The death by chocolate dessert is a uniform line of bitterness and sweetness vying for the attention of your taste buds. It’s a plate of pure chocolate, yet somehow isn’t overkill. Crisp slivers of dark chocolate so bitter it almost tastes sour complement a sweet milk chocolate mousse. It's one of the most distinctive dining experiences in the city, so forget concert tickets; sit at your computer screen on the day of release and join the club.
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